Above photo: A #20 BWO using pullet tip wings
Some of the most common sizes for adult BWOs are tied in sizes from #16 to #18. What I've encountered, at least on many of the rivers and creeks I traverse throughout the season here in the East, is that the majority of these little mayflies are very, very tiny. We often see these insects stuck in cobwebs and resting under leaves. They are not as flamboyant as Drakes, March Browns, or even Hendricksons. They are prolific in the spring and often larger. In the fall, they are physically smaller and shift in color value. Many of the Blue Wing Olive adults that I tie are sizes #18-#24. Wings are one of the most defining characteristics of the adult mayfly. Using hen tips is my favorite material for mayfly wings. As you move down in hook size, tying in wings becomes exponentially more challenging. With a bit of practice, your dexterity will improve with time and patience.
Above photo: A small pullet neck ready for dying a dusky dun color.
Notice how tiny this neck is!
Now you don't often hear the name “pullet,” but back in the mid-1990s, A.K. Best used to send me these, and I acquired many of these little necks directly from him. A pullet is a very young hen, under 12 months old. These little birds have very round, webby tips that make for excellent mayfly wings. Unlike many of the hen necks and saddles on the market today, these tips are not tapered and retain their shape well after use. I dye these using many of A.K. Best's recipes, but I overdye nearly everything twice to match my own color charts for the last 28 years.
Above photo: A #22 micro BWO adult using pullet tips for winging material.
Pullet feathers in general feel softer to the touch and cooperate a little differently, at least the quills certainly do. The quills are fine, tie in beautifully, and are very gossamer. Winging with hen tips takes practice but is a simple task once you get the hang of it. It gets exponentially more difficult when you start tying duns down to #20-#28 sizes.
Above photo: Notice the hackle separation in the vicinity of the thorax, at this size
I wrap two turns around the back of the thorax and two in front. Not only does this add stability to the fly, but it also keeps the wings exactly where you want them.
Above photo: Notice the thorax ball wrapped around the base of the wings.
Simply use a series of criss-cross wraps and angle your wings to your liking.
The thorax ball is dubbed in at the base of the wings; it will help your hackle splay backwards and forwards. What I don't want is a symmetrical hackle collar; I like the fibers to splay. Again, two wraps in the rear of the fly, two wraps in the front, and that's all it takes for the micropattern duns.
Above photo: Notice the splayed hackle fibers from the top view.
Above photo: Small flies often pay big dividends, especially for very selective trout.
During the fall, BWO adults are typically smaller, and the trout zero in on these
tiny hatches of Baetis.
Hen tips, whether you are using pullet or ordinary hen capes or saddles, can make for some incredible imitations for many mayfly dun wings of all sizes and colors. Micropattern duns are extremely important during many hatches throughout the season, and the same basic techniques can be applied to tying both midges and tricos. Experiment with hook sizes #20 and smaller, and you will soon understand the effectiveness of these little morsels. Typical hooks I use for these adult mayfly patterns is the Tiemco 315, a short-shank, light-wire, blacked hook with a micro-barb. Another is the Tiemco 103 BL, and the Fulling Mill FM5050 Ultimate Dry Fly hook.
If you want to learn more about how to tie in these wings, check out A.K. Best and his winging techniques on various accessible videos on YouTube. I learned winging techniques from A.K. decades ago and still use many of them today. Check out his book, Dyeing and Bleaching Natural Fly-Tying Materials, published by Lyons & Burford, and learn how to create your own unique colorways.
