CB's Japanese Beetles

 above photo: Provided by Debbi T. Walker an Ohio Photographer. 

Debbi is a talented outdoor photographer who loves to take pictures of insects, animals, and landscapes and often shoots photography around the Mad River and Cedar Bog.

In the heat of the summer many fish hunker down during the day and will pass up the occasional Caddis, midge, or ant floating overhead. Often fish conserve energy for a larger more nourishing food item. During the summer months fish want to conserve energy and exert themselves only for the most significant meal. 
 
This is called the “Pounds Per Meat Law” again the least amount of energy is expelled for the most nourishment possible. This should be the mid-summer mantra for both fishers and fish!  Large ants are another food item that fish will come off of the bottom for during the midday sun and heat.

Japanese Beetles are one of those items on the surface menu that will spark a fishes interest when nothing else seems to work. Rises to beetles can be vicious and lightning fast by both large and smaller trout. This pattern has saved my summer days on the stream time and time again especially when its hot or windy on the river.

This Japanese Beetle pattern is one I have refined over the years and even have changed up since the advent of some better synthetics. Sheet foam over the years has become more accessible as far as thicknesses and color range.

I'm particular about foam thickness as much as I am about feathers and color ranges. Hopefully this pattern will serve you well as a close imitation to the naturals. This particular pattern is always in my vest from July through October.

CB's Japanese Beetle

Thread~ Veevus 14/0 Black

Hook~ TMC 531 #14

Body~ Beaver Belly Dubbing

            Peacock Herl x3 strands

            Uni Wire Fine green

Wing Case~ Loco Foam Beetle Green

Rear Legs~ Knotted Black or green Pheasant Tail

Front Legs~ Black Hackle Collar x3 wraps

1) Near the hook bend:
Tie in Green Loco foam a .25" wide segment.
Tie in 2 to 3 strands of peacock herl.
Tie in Green Uni Wire.

2) Begin by dubbing black Beaver Belly into an egg or football shape to create the profile of the beetles abdomen. Now wrap the Peacock Herl covering 1/2 of the hook shank over the dubbing profile. Now wrap the Uni wire in the opposite direction that you wrapped the Peacock Herl. Now tie in 4 knotted pheasant tail legs, two on each side of the hook. the Legs should extend about .125" behind the hook bend. The tie in point fore the legs is right in front of your abdomen. See all images below.

3) Now pull Loco Foam over entire abdomen section and make 4-5 tight wraps while pinching foam between your index finger and thumb. Snip off tag end of foam and secure down tightly. Now you will have a defined wing case segment. Tie in black hackle in front of tied off section of foam. Now wrap black hackle 4-5 turns. This will imitate the front legs and give the fly more stability.

4) Build up a thorax section using black dubbing in front of hackle collar.Make sure you do not crowd the hook eye. This is actually the hardest part when tying this fly, get your proportions correctly early on and the whip finish will not leave you spewing explatives.

5) Waterproof the fly with CDC floatant. I recommend this because float foams react to chemicals in many floatants and you may cause the finish on the Loco Foam to melt.

         ~Clint Bova

Mac-o-Cheek Reflections and The Piatt Castles

 “Mac-o-Cheek Wet Bridge” oil on 6x8 wood panel 

field study ~ Clint Bova spring 2017

The Mecoche Division of the Shawnee lived along the Mac-o-Cheek creek hundreds of years ago. Today the creek is still flowing just north east of West Liberty Ohio. Its a tiny creek that in most sections is no wider than a pickup truck. It runs cold year around and supports Brown trout that were stocked originally by the Piatt's in the late 1880's. The Mac-o-Cheek is one of my favorite little creeks not only in Ohio but in the North East. I designed the “Little Mecoche” cane rod specifically for this little creek which can be referenced in my main site under rod types.

A visit to the Piatt Castles is a must for any fly fisherman to uncover the mysteries of this little gem.
please visit: www.piattcastles.org
                              ~Clint Joseph Bova

The Upstream Approach

“Upstream Under Cover” field study, N. Lippencott 
oil on 6x8 wood panel ~Clint Bova

When fishing in narrow creeks and smallish streams the mantra has always been move slowly and fish in the upstream position. There is a lot of truth to these precepts for about a half dozen different reasons. If you have ever read In the Ring of the Rise by Vince Marinaro he speaks about moving in the upstream position with great conviction. Marinaro is a master of deception when it comes to remaining invisible to trout and moving with catlike stealth.

~The upstream position or 12 o'clock position allows you to move without creating any siltation that will often trigger a flight response from fish.

~The upstream position allows you to stay out of the fishes peripheral vision and what we call the absolute window. Just recently marine biologists are discovering that the fishes eyesight is much more acute above the surface than previously understood.

~The upstream position allows the fisherman to reposition casts without creating splashes and water disturbances that will eventually move over the fish.

Some simple common sense stuff that will make for a better day of fishing.

                 ~Clint Joseph Bova

The Venerable TMC 212Y Dry Fly Hook

Many people ask me what kind of emerger hooks I prefer to use on  my patterns? Specifically for caddis, midges, and mayflies. For many years I used the TMC 2488, 2487, Dai-Riki 125's, Gamakatsu C-15's, Daiichi 1167...and the list goes on. What I have found is that these are all good hooks in general BUT what makes a good all around emerger hook? There are three traits to the hook geometry that make it a great hook. 

~The first great hook trait is the fine wire diameter for properly suspending a fly in the surface film cast after cast. The hook needs to be strong and fine. The hook cannot be to heavy since the gossamer materials used to mimic this life stage need to be somewhat minimal or sparse in appearance.

~The Second trait is the hook profile needs to offer you enough real estate to actually tie a proportional facsimile. If the hook is too long it may only be appropriate for a very narrow genre of insects. If the hook is too short in gape, bite, shank, or bend, the materials used can inhibit the hooking potential. This is a bigger issue than you think and unfortunately not discussed enough among tyers.

~The Third Trait is what I call “hook mojo” in order for you to feel confident and actually use the fly on stream you need to have a good track record with a particular hook. You have to believe in it!

The TMC 212Y has always been very consistent in holding power and control in my experience. It offers the golden mean for proportion when it comes to gape and bite. If there ever was a Vitruvian Emerger Hook the TMC 212Y would fit the build.

                   ~Clint Joseph Bova

The Importance of Observation

“Deer Crossing” Oil Tonal Study, 6x8 wood panel

Mad River Spring 2017, Clint Joseph Bova

Often in the spring I just go for long walks along the river to observe all the changes that take place over the winter. Root wads move, limbs break, entire trees come down creating new prime lies.

Compound lies are created by sand bars and bank erosion that are really subtle indicators that will help you map in your brain where the fish may be before you even set foot in the water. 

“Deer Crossing” Oil on 6x8 wood panel

Mad River Spring 2017, Clint Joseph Bova

I create both visual maps and mental maps. Everyone who knows me knows that I spend a lot of time wandering about (often aimlessly and confused) sketching and writing in my journal. I think I would feel a bit lost if I didn't observe as much as possible. Taking notes in whatever form you feel comfortable with always pays big dividends in the long run.

Nice Spring Brown caught on a CDC midge emerger 

Mad River Spring 2017

Spring fishing can be confusing and often frustrating when dealing with hatches that last only a few minutes or weather patterns that change hourly. Being in the right place at the right time always helps. Simple observation and patience over time is a great means to a successful day.
Happy and productive spring fishing to all!
~Clint Joseph Bova

Early Spring on The Mad River

 

 “Old Iron” The Mad River, 6x8 Oil Field Study on Wood Panel 

Clint Bova Spring 2017

Spring 2017 has proven to be a great one thus far with some spectacular early hatches and some early warm weather. The peculiar spring weather has been a refreshing blessing. 

“Color is only beautiful when it means something”

~Robert Henri

The Four Season Emerger

Fellow fly fishers ask me all the time what kind of “staple” emerger pattern I use so I decided to share my “Four Season Emerger” pattern. The following is a simple emerger pattern that I use season after season. This fly is very durable, very convincing, and the TMC 212Y hook is a perfect canvas for this style fly.

The Four Season Emerger
Thread: Veevus 14/0
Hook: TMC 212Y 14-22
Wing: CDC natural or desired tint
Body: Dyed Peacock quill
Dubbing: (Thorax) Beaver Belly w/guard hairs
Legs: Knotted dyed Pheasant tail (double knotted)
Varnish: SH Hard as Nails

You can tie this up as a midge, mayfly, or even caddis imitation depending on your proportions and material selections.

First create a body on a TMC 212Y sizes #14-22 by winding a stripped and dyed peacock quill. Varnish with 2 coats of SH Hard as Nails.

After your bodies have dried tie in some knotted pheasant tail. Notice the two knotted strands, two legs on both sides of the hook.

Dub over your thread bump where the legs begin with Beaver Belly. Make sure you get a lot of guard hairs in your thorax area so loosely dub it on the thread.

Three CDC feathers will be more than adequate to float this hook. Tie in your CDC so that the feather tips are just shy of the rear of the hook, slightly over or under is fine. Now tie in a clump of Beaver Belly loosely dubbed at the head of your hook. It takes a little practice to get the proportions correct but after your third fly you should be getting the hang of it!

I carry these patterns in my boxes year round and I tie it up using a half dozen different colors. You can use legs on it or choose to leave them off. Either way it is one of my most killing patterns.
~Clint Joseph Bova