Around late September or early October, the “Phantom Caddis,” as I call them, appear on the water in spring creeks all over the Northeast. These black microcaddis are size #20 and smaller. They are not robust in the least bit; they are sizes 20-32. Trout are extremely particular about this size caddis, and you can watch them in gin-clear water inspecting as though they have visual micrometers measuring and scrutinizing like they have had a sudden bout of OCD. These little black caddisflies will have you on your toes! I always have to lower my blood pressure during this time of year. So less coffee before black caddis fishing is my mantra. Oh, and remember to breathe!
(click on any images for magnification)
Above photo: The TMC 531 #20 shown has a microbarb, an extended hook point, blackened wire, a 2x short shank, 2x fine wire, and a wider gape than a TMC 100 or 101. It's a superior hook that I lean heavily towards smaller patterns in general.
Tiny black microcaddis are extremely critical to carry with you in the fall months. Often, it's all the trout are zeroed in on. Spring creeks in the Northeastern part of the United States start having hatches of Hydroptilidae as early as mid-September, and these hatches can continue through November. Often, brown trout will pass up the most convincing midge emerger or adult for these very tiny caddisflies that can often be mistaken for midges. The rise forms are also very similar to that of a midging trout, which is out of the norm for caddis.
Part of the problem with any fly pattern that is black and extremely small is that you're going to have difficulty tracking it in the water, especially depending upon what time of day it is, which, even for the best set of eyes, proves difficult. Late sets and short strikes are inevitable. So actually being able to see these tiny black patterns is critical in successfully getting positive hookups.
Above photo: Biot wings conceal a black CDC feather used as an underwing. The biot wings create a nice little tent that traps air; this pattern floats forever.
The following pattern is not easy to spot on the water, but the hackle collar does cast a slight silhouette, and that is enough for me. But nothing is stopping you from tying in a spotter tag of fluorescent yarn behind the hackle collar.
Above photo: This hook selection (shot with a Sigma 70mm all uniform scale) is what I typically use for microcaddis patterns across the board. The TMC 531 #20 is the hook used in all the photos, but any of these hooks are superb for this pattern. I am purposely showing a Partridge “Caddis Pupa” K2BY #18 for scale. This Partridge hook only goes up to a #18, but it's still close to the uniform scale of the other hooks and has an ultra-wide gape. The K2BY is one of my favorite hooks for small dry fly patterns. It's a deadly reliable hook.
Above photo: Very fine holographic rib tinsel is used over the black Kapok dubbed abdomen. Two dark teal fibers are tied in place prior to hackling for antennae.
This micropattern also casts easily with a 0-1- or 2-wt. line. This is critical because those little breezes in the fall months can wreak havoc on your accuracy when targeting risers in gin-clear waters. Often, you may have only one chance to hook up with a large, sophisticated brown in low, clear water, on the take for black microdcaddis. So I typically use short midge rods in 1- or 2-wt. lines at this time of year. The fish are wary and often holding in such shallow water that a 4wt. line shatters the surface noticeably. Using 1 or 2wt. line, a furled silk or UNI leader 60" or 70" along with a straight shot of 7x will put you in the driver's seat during this often very technical hatch.
Thanks for letting me share!
~Clint Bova
