Drunkin Cricket
Above photo: One of my most productive end-of-summer cricket patterns on a #14 Hanak 300 BL. The Czech Nymph style hook provides a wonderful geometry for a struggling cricket in the surface film.
As summer starts to roll into August, crickets in my neck of the woods are quite prolific, and hoppers always seem to steal the show; crickets never really get the air time. Crickets, when tied in sizes #14 and smaller, become deadly patterns when large trout refusals will frustrate the most seasoned angler. Tying crickets on a Hanak 300 Bl, a Czech nymph hook, is a wonderful pairing. Crickets like hoppers are not water-borne insects, so it stands to reason they WILL struggle in the surface film just to stay afloat. Often you will see them splayed awkwardly or half sunk. This is where a good strong nymph hook comes into play, like the Hanak 300 Czech nymph hook. I have experimented with this pattern for many years using bug skin, foam, etc., but using opaque black scud back over a very buoyant layer of Beaver Belly and kapok has proven itself most effective.
Above photo: black scud back works wonderfully for small cricket patterns where stealth and accuracy count. Black coastal deer hair provides just enough movement to give the impression of the insect struggling in the surface layer.
Using black coastal deer hair overdubbed with black Beaver Belly and Kapok keeps this fly half sunk in the surface film. Opaque black Scud Back pulled over both the abdomen and the thorax creates that highly reflective finish that black crickets have. This also makes spotting this pattern quite easy without the use of fluorescent antron or bright parapost materials.
Above photo: Legs made of knotted pheasant-tail fibers, overdyed red and black, paired with crimson wire ribbing, lend cadence to a convincing colorway for a fall cricket.
Above photo: Here you can see how this relatively small pattern throws a great silhouette from above and, most importantly, from below.
When tying this pattern in smaller sizes, you really reduce your chances of scaring an entire pool of weary brown trout into the next county. Don't get me started on all the absolutely ridiculous “Little Tikes” terrestrial patterns made with bright, candy-colored foam that looks like it belongs in the hands of a sticky, prediabetic kid at the state fair. The stuff that riddles YouTube and Instagram may look juicy, but honestly, in my neck of the woods, those patterns are one-trick ponies at best. The insane truth is that most of these viral patterns come from guys who are ambassadors for huge fly-tying brands, trying to tap into a younger audience. Can you tell? I used to work alongside marketing people for 25-plus years. Selling synthetics is often easier and more lucrative because sourcing natural materials seasonally is often more difficult. Enough said.
Above photo: The antennae are simply black pheasant tail fibers that enhance the convincing silhouette. Make sure you use a finer GSP thread, like UTC Ultra 70 or Semperfli nano silk; it is ultra-strong and, most importantly, low-bulk for these smaller articulated patterns. Count your wraps for consistency.
Hook: Hanak 300 BL sizes #14-#16, Hanak 390 BL #18
Thread: Black UTC Ultra 70 or Semperfli Nano Silk 18/0
Wing: Black coastal deer hair
Legs: Knotted red and black pheasant tail fibers X6
Rib: UTC sm crimson wire
Wing Case: Black scud back .25" width
Cerci: (tail prongs) black biots x2
Abdomen/Thorax: Black Beaver Belly mixed with black Kapok
Antennae: x2 pheasant tail fibers dyed black
This pattern takes me between 10 and 15 minutes to tie. I typically take my time tying this in smaller sizes. Be mindful that proportion is always key. I use two- and three-weight rods at the time of year when crickets are prolific, so having a low-bulk pattern allows me flexibility with lighter rods, line weights, and furled leaders.
Thanks for letting me share!
